There are so many reasons to invest in a pearl jewellery design. From the timeless elegance of classic pearls to the modish appeal of baroque pearl designs, pearl jewellery suits every style and taste.
If you’re looking for your next pearl jewellery design, one of the main questions you may face is whether to buy new, vintage or even antique pearl jewellery. We help guide your decision below.
What should you consider when shopping for vintage or antique pearl jewellery?
Know your terms!
Before shopping for your next set of antique or vintage pearl jewellery, familiarise yourself with these terms!
Although often used interchangeably, ‘vintage’ and ‘antique’ refer to different periods.
If a piece is considered vintage pearl jewellery, it’s typically between 50 to 100 years old. By comparison, antique pearl jewellery is usually over 100 years old.
There can be difficulty distinguishing which category-specific jewellery styles belong to, for example, Art Deco can be a particularly contentious classification. If you have doubts, you can always consult an expert (we are happy to help!).
Natural or cultured pearls
There are two different types of pearls – natural or cultured.
Cultured pearls are cultivated by human intervention. Essentially, a bead nucleus is introduced into a pearl-producing mollusc. Over time, epithelial cells build up microscopic layers of nacre around this bead nucleus. This becomes a pearl.
Pearls have been cultured since the 14th century, but Kokichi Mikimoto having bought the intellectual rights of Mr Mise and Mr Nishikawa in 1907, turned the pearl world on its head. Both Mise and Nishikawa had invented implements to help an oyster start pearl formation, when Mikimoto started selling his cultured pearl necklaces at $100 they looked similar to a natural pearl necklace of the same dimensions worth $5,000 at the time. This allowed many more women to enjoy the luxury of a pearl necklace
When you’re looking for a piece of antique pearl jewellery that’s over 100 years old, you should pay attention to whether the item in question is made of natural or cultured pearls. Cultured pearls are more likely to have been mistreated. If pearls aren’t properly cared for, they can suffer in any number of ways, including going yellow because of dehydration.
By contrast, natural pearls are the epitome of luxury and rarity, making for exquisite heirloom antique pearl jewellery.
Quality and provenance
Speaking of the mistreatment of pearls, take care to always assess the quality, craftsmanship and provenance of any vintage pearl jewellery design. Check for signs of damage or wear, and ascertain whether any repairs have taken place, as this can influence a piece’s value and longevity.
If you’re looking for an antique pearl jewellery design of historical or cultural significance, it is a good idea to authenticate its provenance. Pearl experts can provide documentation to verify the origin and authenticity of any design, and they may even have the carat weight of all natural pearls, which is essential in maintaining their value.
Period and style
Research the jewellery design or period that suits your distinct aesthetic and style.
The abstract glamour of a geometric Art Deco design may not suit someone who prefers the sumptuous ornamentation of an Edwardian piece.
Taking the time to consider the style period that best suits you can help you narrow down your search and find a design that most speaks to you.
Investment
Whether you’re looking for vintage or antique pearl jewellery, set yourself a budget before you shop. You’ll be able to locate both more budget-friendly and more luxurious designs, so it’s sensible to know what bracket best suits you before you shop, and be prepared to spend a little more for a design that really speaks to you
Remember that pearls rarely depreciate, unless they are very badly cared for, in addition to their real value lying in the fact that they are the best way to enhance your glow and beauty. High-quality pearls that are exceptional, rare or unique appreciate in value even more. As such, pearl designs make for great investment jewellery to wear as perennial favourites, or hand down to the next generation as an heirloom design.
3 of history’s most exceptional antique pearl jewellery designs
Marie Antoinette’s pearls
Marie Antoinette was no stranger to pearl jewellery, and in November 2018, her pearl and diamond pendant was sold for an exceptional $36.8 million. Believed to have been among the jewels packed for safekeeping before the King and Queen prepared to escape from the besieged Palace of the Tuileries, the pendant eventually made its way into the safekeeping of Antoinette’s niece.
A three-strand pearl necklace once belonging to the doomed French queen was also sold at the same auction for around $2.2 million.
La Peregrina
Another antique pearl necklace, ‘La Peregrina’ – also known as ‘The Pilgrim’ or ‘The Wanderer’ – has journeyed through 500 years of royal and historical collections. Presented to King Philip II and his bride-to-be Mary I of England, La Peregrina was returned to the Crown Jewels of Spain following her death, remaining there for 250 years.
Richard Burton ultimately gifted La Peregrina to his wife Elizabeth Taylor in 1969, having paid the miraculously low price of $37,000 for the pearl. Following Taylor’s death, Christie’s sold the necklace in 2011 for $11.8million.
Emperor Yongzheng’s (Yinzhen) ceremonial eastern pearl necklace
Worn by Emperor Yongzheng between 1722 and 1735, this ceremonial necklace, known as Chaozhou, was considered sacred for Buddhists, it was crafted to a strict design.
108 total pearls combine with quartz, spinel, and sapphire cabochons, as well as gold filigree coral bats, lapis lazuli, and red tourmaline. After every twenty-seventh pearl, a coloured bead – known as the fotou– breaks up the sequence. Three strands known as jinian hang loosely on either side of the necklace, which is fixed in place with an ornamental strap.
In 2010, the necklace was sold at a Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction for $8.7 million.
How to choose new pearl jewellery
From the elegant simplicity of pearl pendants to the everyday wearability of pearl earrings, there’s a new pearl jewellery design for everyone.
If you’re shopping for new pearl jewellery, decide on the style, colour, and type of jewellery you’re looking for. You can then filter based on your budget. Freshwater pearl jewellery is affordable and comes in various colours, making ideal jewellery to mix and match. Alternatively, the drama of Tahitian pearl jewellery brings serious luxury to any outfit.
You can also design your own bespoke pearl jewellery with Coleman Douglas Pearls. We’ll use our comprehensive knowledge of pearls to match the perfect pearl shape and tone to your unique colouring, features and personality.
Find your next pearl jewellery design
Book a consultation with Coleman Douglas Pearls to find either new or antique pearl jewellery that lights up your face. As pearl experts for over thirty years, we’ll help you invest with confidence.
